Sri Lanka beyond the beaches

Sigiriya (Sri Lanka)-- Even as northern and eastern Sri Lanka recently experienced an upsurge in fighting between government troops and Tamil Tiger rebels, most tourists appear unperturbed by the situation.

Sri Lanka is not just a destination to spend time on the beach. One of the most popular spots to visit on the island is the rock at Sigiriya and the temple complex in Dambulla.

The path up Sigiriya, known as the Lion Rock, is not for anyone with a fear of heights or confined spaces. It's difficult to suppress a feeling of vertigo when you see yet another flight of steps soaring upwards, thronged by hundreds of tourists and locals.

But whoever manages to reach the top is rewarded with a spectacular view over the canopy of the jungle.

From a distance Sigiriya looks like a massive boulder. The red-brown monolith stretches 200 metres over the flat, green landscape.

A king called Kasyapa was so enthralled by the rock that he ordered a palace, which takes up the entire plateau, to be built there. Records say a Buddhist monastery was also located there. The complex was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982.

The rock is named after the enormous, painted lion sculptures that once stood at the entrance to the palace. All that remains of the lions today are their paws.

On the way up visitors pass by a terrace known as the "Mirror Wall" with its frescos of slim, bare-chested women.

Experts are still discussing whether the pictures show nymphs or Kasyapa's courtesans. He is reputed to have had a harem of about 500 women.

Sigiriya is in the interior of the country in an area of cultural significance that includes some of the most important Buddhist centres on the island.

A piece of the tree under which Buddha is reputed to have received enlightenment can be found in the city of Anuradhapura. Every large Buddhist temple complex on the island has a fig tree that originates from the tree in Anuradhapura.

The same applies to the complex at Dambulla, another World Heritage Site, with its complex of five caves and more than 150 Buddha statues.

In a grotto, spread over an area of 2,000 square metres, monks have painted images on the wall.

Just as at every temple in Sri Lanka visitors must remove their shoes before entering. Men should not wear short trousers and women must wear skirts or trousers that reach as far as their knees.

To the south is the busy city of Kandy with all the problems that go with a crowded urban area: traffic jams, noise and polluted air.

In the market, traders sell their spices, fresh fruit and handmade craft objects. Just a few metres away is the holiest Buddhist site in Sri Lanka. The Temple of the Tooth is said to house one of the Buddha's molars.

The tooth is contained within six caskets. According to tradition it was taken from Buddha's funeral pyre. However, the relic is never on public display.