The truth about beauty cosmetics

So you have an anti-wrinkle cream that smells like a garden in bloom, strawberry scrubs for a fresher you and lotions that erase the tracery of age? Fact: few, if any, work. Eye takes a hard look.

Manisha Malhotra’s dressing table is littered with creams, lotions and gels. There are under eye creams, anti wrinkle serums, creams to remove stretch marks, and sun blocks. She can’t resist buying goodies for her skin, the 35 year old says. “I don’t spend on make up,” she insists, “Because good skin is the best makeup.”

Malhotra isn’t one of a kind. Dozens among us are hooked on buying cosmetics marketed as magic potions to keep us blemish free and radiant. How many of them actually make a difference? According to dermatology, few, if any.

“These creams might make you smell good and temporarily soften your skin but they have absolutely no impact on the health of the skin.” Says Delhi based dermatologist Sandeep Kandhari. “For normal skin, glycerine and water work as well as the most expensive moisturizer.” Some Indian dermatologists even refute the importance of moisturizing daily. “It should be done only if your skin is feeling parched, not as a ritual,” adds Dr. Kandhari.

As affluent Indians become more brand conscious, skincare budgets are on the rise. A variety of international brands are cashing in on the growing demand. Now, even the world’s most expensive skin products are available in Delhi and Mumbai. A small jar of crème de la Mer, which has a devoted following in the West, costs an astounding $450 (Rs. 18370). Created by an aerospace physicist to treat his own skin burn scars, this cream is a concoction of sea weed extracts and mineral oil. A New Delhi shopkeeper who imports it for select clients reveals on condition of anonymity that he sells about four jars a week. Ditto for La Prairie, another fast selling global brand that has takers here. An ounce can cost $335 (Rs 13600).

But as Indians fall for exotic ingredients, skilful marketing and snazzily packaged creams, dermatologists in New York are now advocating skin care minimalism. The back to basics movement in the West has been fuelled by dermatologists who have reached the conclusion that there is no scientific evidence to suggest that expensive cosmetics work. Medicated treatments for acne, pigmentation and sunburn go through rigorous tests to prove their efficacy. Cosmetics don’t. Though most cosmetics companies spend on research, they are not required to make their findings public. Moreover, a new product poses the risk of allergic reactions like itching and white spots.

We asked Lakme, a leading cosmetic brand in India to share what research, if any, goes into product development. The spokesperson for the company declined to comment. VLCC, a health care brand and a new entrant in the personal products market launched a range of cleansers, toners and moisturizers four years ago and did a turnover of Rs 40 crore in the last financial year. “We haven’t conducted tests nor do we have data to show that our products work,” says Shweta Paul, manager, VLCC Personal Products. “The feedback from users is very positive, so they must be benefiting,” adds Paul.

US doctors are now urging patients to use soap to keep skin clear and sunscreen to protect against the sun. That’s it. However, dermatologists here say that typical Indian skin doesn’t even require sunscreen. “unlike Europeans, our skin has a large quantity of melanin, which is a natural shield against skin cancer,” says Dr J.S. Pasricha, who was the head of dermatology at AIIMS and an expert on autoimmune skin diseases. Dr. Pasricha cites the example of Indians living in Australia where the rate of skin cancer is the highest in the world, but negligibly low in the Indian community.

“Similarly, people living in the hills in India are exposed to the sun a lot, but they don’t get sunburn,” explains Dr Pasricha. He’s also dead against facials, microderm abrasion treatments and chemical peels prescribed at local beauty parlors. “When you peel a layer off artificially, you are tampering with the natural rhythm of your skin,” he says, adding that scrubs for exfoliation and home remedies like milk and fruit masks are “completely nonsensical and have no medical benefit whatsoever.”

There may be a feel good factor to having someone massage your face, but is it going to reduce wrinkles? The answer from the medical community is a resounding no. As for brands that position them as organic, chemical free and made of plant extract; dermatologists denounce them as downright dangerous. “Even tobacco is a plant,” says Dr Pasricha, “does that make it safe?” he asks.

The bigger question on the efficacy of anti wrinkle creams is complicated. Consumers should look for the ingredients retinol and alpha hydroxyl acids that have been known to stimulate skin cells and reduce dark spots and lines. However, buying an anti wrinkle cream and randomly applying it isn’t going to dramatically reverse the aging process.

“It’s not like the same solution will work for all skin types,” says Dr Kandhari. “It depends on the formulation and the oil and water content of the cream.” For those of us really looking for the elixir of youth, maybe we’re better off investing in a shot of botox.